Cuban Knight Anole
A.K.A: Cuban Anole, Knight Anole, Giant Anole
The minimum size
enclosure for a Cuban Knight Anole is a 4ft tall 2 ft wide and 2ft deep this is roughly 120 gallons. Until they are adults they can be housed in a 55 gallon aquarium. Once they are older they will need a larger enclosure and
one adequate for climbing. Remember to get a locking lid for the enclosure. To line the enclosure you will want to choose
the one that best works for you. These are some appropriate bedding options; paper towels, newspaper, reptile carpet, AstroTurf,
shelf liner, tile, organic soil, or compressed coconut fiber. Other options such as sand, gravel, reptile bark should be avoided.
can be maintained by misting the enclosure at least 3 times daily, providing a reptile fogger, reptile mister, or water drop
mechanism. The ideal humidity should be kept between 70% and 80% to low or two high can cause medical problems. Do not let
the humidity fall below 60 or be over 80. Your Anole will drink up the droplets left on the leaves and decorations in the
enclosure after misting. You also need to provide a large but shallow water dish for shedding, drinking, and bathing. Replace
the water daily.
needs to be kept between 82˙F (28˙C) and 86˙F (30˙C) during the day and between 75˙F (24˙C)
and 80˙F (27˙C) at night and a basking temperature (near the heat light) of 90˙F (32˙C). Like with all other diurnal (awake during the day) lizards. They will need a UVB producing light. This
light needs to be on for 10-12 hours a day. During this time, the light will provide enough UV rays for proper digestion and
release appropriate amounts of vitamin D3 to allow for calcium absorption. Without a UVB light it is extremely likely for
your pet to get a medical condition called MBD. This stands for Metabolic Bone Disease which is fatal if not caught early
Feeding and Supplements:
adults can eat a staple of crickets (no bigger then the space between their eyes) with a variety of butter worms, super worms,
silk worms, and earth worms. The adults can also eat pinkie mice, and small lizards like Green Anoles and House Geckos. The adults should be fed at least every other day and juveniles daily. Dust the crickets
and other food items with a calcium/multivitamin supplement. This is crucial to your pet’s health and needs to be done
to all food items every other feeding. Dust the insects with a calcium/D3 supplement at least once a month.
Males will have a dewlap
(flap of skin under the chin that expands to look like they are puffing their throat) it’s a pale pink shade and is
extended when felt threatened or used as a demonstration to attract a mate. Females can have them too but its not often you
see a female Cuban Knight Anole with a dewlap and when you do they never get as big as the males. Once they are adults you
can tell by the two pores on the underside of your pet near the vent. Males will have these little bumps and the females will
List / Minimum Requirements:
You will need
a large enclosure (see above for dimensions)
Plenty of fake
plants and branches logs and items to climb on. (real plants will get broken and damaged easily by your Anole)
A UVB producing
A heat light
or ceramic heat emitter (this basking light should be outside so the Anole does not get burnt
A digital Hygrometer
A digital Thermometer
(the stick on plastic dials can be up to 20 degrees inaccurate )
A reptile mister
(spray/mist bottle for water) or a water drip mechanism
A large but
shallow water dish
heat bulb if you are not using a ceramic heat emitter to maintain night time temperatures
There are many
items that Cuban Knight Anoles should not have. Heat Rocks and Heat Caves
can severely burn your lizard’s stomach and feet and should be avoided for all lizards. The only advantage to using
a Heat Pad is to keep the substrate warm for humidity purposes they use over head heat not ground heat to stay warm. Do not
use any Sand, Gravel, or Repti-Bark substrates. Do not feed mealworms, their
hard exoskeleton can easily cause impaction they are also very low in nutrients and aren’t healthy.
are arboreal and they spend most of their time in the trees and up to15ft high. They don’t spend much time on the ground
and are not all too active.
The normal color
is a green with yellow patches and one white stripe under the eye on another on the shoulder going to the middle of their
back. When they are dark green to brown they are usually stressed or unhappy. This is when you should leave them be and make
sure the temperature and humidity is correct. They can also change to a reddish green if in the territorial or aggressive
mood. This is when you know to take a step back. During their sleep and at night they will become a light/pale green.
Anoles used to
be called “American Chameleons” long ago but there is no relation between the Anole species and the Chameleon
Anoles are aggressive, they won’t tolerate being handled and can leave a nasty bite. Occasionally there will be a docile
one in a hatch but its not often. They should be housed alone unless you are an experienced breeder. Never house two males together and try to avoid housing a male with a female as it can also be dangerous.
They can and will fight to the death if they don’t get along.
are not good pets for children of any ages. They are not for playing with or handling. They are very fascinating and amazing
reptiles but definitely not for children.